Seafood dishes are wowing diners at Conwy’s latest eaterie – the recently opened Telfords Bistro. My stepdaughter Karen and I went to check out the hype for ourselves when we had dinner there.
From the moment we arrived, the experience was thoroughly enjoyable and I can honestly say that the food really floated our boat. An all-year-round popular tourist attraction, Conwy is a mecca for some first-class restaurants, gastro pubs, cosy cafés and fast food outlets of every description, but a speciality seafood restaurant has long been overdue.
But early this summer that gap was filled. In just seven weeks the former Conwy Municipal Offices in the middle of Castle Street, which has been vacant since 2019, was transformed into a stylish modern restaurant and bar.
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Initial teething problems have been sorted out and now the venue, which is owned by Christian Whittleworth and Doug Langton, is running smoothly and has added an exciting new dimension to eating out in one of Britain’s best-preserved medieval walled towns. The pristine stainless steel kitchen is manned by three highly talented chefs, led by owner Christian, who cook everything to order from scratch, using top local produce wherever possible.
Their menu is a mouth-watering mix of traditional classic dishes with a contemporary twist. Delicious fish and seafood dishes are the star attractions but meat and vegetarian choices feature as well, meaning there is something for everyone. Prices are fair by today‘s standards and the staff do everything possible to please.
Customers can drop in for a quiet drink, pick at small plates or go for a full meal from the main a la carte menu. The latter showcases the abundant seafood found in the waters around North Wales and beyond.
Parking in busy Castle Street can be difficult, more so for us as that evening the ancient castle was hosting an open-air performance of Romeo and Juliet by the Lord Chamberlain’s Men, the UK’s premier all-male theatre company Theatregoers were converging on the town but luck was with us and we found a handy space almost outside the door.
It was early when we arrived, around 6pm, but the restaurant was already filling up with couples and parties of all ages. We took it as a good sign.
We were met by Rufus Carter, the very affable front-of-house man, who quickly seated us at a table beside the front window, which gave us a super view of the comings and goings in the street. With its cool classy decor, there was certainly a great deal to like about this new eatery. Spotlessly clean and bright, the spacious ground floor dining room sported trendy white and teal coloured walls, masses of greenery and a cushioned floor resembling Spanish tiling. Marble-topped tables with teal-coloured velvet chairs were set well apart so you didn’t feel at all cramped.
Lots of prints of Conwy and a beautiful shell-encrusted mirror adorned the walls, making for a relaxing informal atmosphere. All in all Telfords Bistro was a delightful venue in which to wine and dine with family and friends.
After a few minutes of taking in our surroundings, Karen and I got down to the serious business of deciding what to eat and drink and my goodness, we really were spoiled for choice.
Drinks came first and on offer was an extensive assortment of beers and ciders, including a daily changing selection. There was a variety of spirits, liqueurs, soft drinks and mixers, including some from local producers. The wine list featured a carefully chosen international collection of red, white and rose varieties by the glass or bottle, plus sparkling wine and champagne including classic Tattinger Brut and Rosé at £75 per bottle. I liked the way the wine list helpfully suggested perfect pairings with food.
Karen was on driving duty so she opted for a bottle of Corona Extra, a light crisp lager which came nicely chilled. I chose a glass of fruity New Zealand Oriwa Sauvignon, an ideal partner for seafood.
Telfords is a fish and seafood lover's dream. Halibut, tuna, monkfish, seabass, cod, whitebait and salmon dishes all featured on the menu along with local Conwy mussels, langoustines, king prawns, scallops and calamari. Meat eaters, however, were not forgotten and three meat dishes were available - lamb, beef and chicken, plus vegetarian options. Occasionally a ’special’ was put on, depending on the catch- the last was lobster thermidor which wasn’t available when Karen and I dined. Pity!
We decided to share a portion of scallops from the seven small plates on offer costing between £7-£9.50 and it wasn’t long before a dish arrived containing a generous serving of four large molluscs adorned with crispy bits of prosciutto ham and a tasty leaf salad. Seared golden brown on the outside, the scallops were soft and slightly opaque in the centre and actually tasted of the sea.
Karen loves lamb and was delighted to find an exotic Moroccan lamb dish in the mains. After an acceptable wait, she was presented with four cutlets on a bed of golden couscous containing pomegranate, figs, sun-dried tomatoes and mint. This was accompanied by a small dish of natural yoghurt.
“It smells and tastes divine,“ Karen said delightedly. “All the different ingredients complement each other perfectly and the presentation is lovely.”
After tasting everything myself, I thoroughly agreed.
There were seven different fish dishes on the menu, priced between £20 for seafood linguine to £40 for cioppino, an aromatic Italian fish stew which was for two people to share. I chose seafood linguine, an old favourite I had eaten in many different restaurants. Telfords version was first class - full of flavour, with generous amounts of clams, mussels, smoked haddock and king prawns in a delicate creamy white sauce.
Although we were both pretty full, in the interests of the taste test we had to sample the desserts which were priced at £7, except for the cheeseboard with figs and chutney which cost £9.
Karen opted for sticky toffee pudding with seasonal berries and ice cream and I had crème brulee with berries and a shortbread biscuit. Both were excellent and were the perfect finish to our meals.
Telfords Bistro has come a long way in a very short time and is already well established, attracting seafood enthusiasts from a wide area as well as catering for the many visitors to the historic town. I think it’s fair to say that a new star has been added to Conwy’s culinary crown and it won’t be long before Karen and I return.
The facts
What we ate and drank: Corona lager £4, Glass Sauvignon £5.50, Scallops £9.50, Seafood Linguine £20, Lamb cutlets £21, Creme Brulee £7, Sticky toffee pudding £7. Total £74.
Address and contact details: Telfords Bistro, 26 Castle Street, Conwy LL32 8AY. Telephone 01492 702471/07596 225898.
Opening times: Wed – Sat 1-10pm. Special lunch menu available
Seating: Up to 60 places.
Parking: In street if you can find a place. Pay and display car park nearby
Disabled: Access and toilet
Overall: Excellent food, service and atmosphere. Booking advisable, especially at weekends.
