It’s a place with breathtaking views and captivating wildlife that’s launched a million photos on social media. Uniquely, this small island with its white-washed lighthouse is also a destination that comes with its own lung-busting challenge.
Accessing it means a 410-step descent of a walled path that snakes down 300ft cliffs on the edge of Holy Island, Ynys Môn (Anglesey). Then 410 steps back up again: 400 stone, 10 metal. There’s only a single route to and from the tiny islet of South Stack (Ynys Lawd).
Organisers advise “anyone suffering from vertigo, heart or respiratory conditions” not to make the trip. Invariably, everyone who completes the trek believes it’s worth it. “One of the best spots to be in North Wales, absolutely stunning views,” said one recent visitor. Another added: “It’s just amazing being on the corner of a continent and taking in all the ocean breeze.”
READ MORE: Campaign launched to refer to Anglesey by its Welsh name only
And then there’s the wildlife. An estimated 8,000 birds nest on the towering cliffs, from guillemots to razorbills, kittiwakes and Mank Shearwaters. You don’t have to be lucky to see puffins and their tangerine feet here.
Other charismatic visitors include red-beaked Chough. “A peregrine falcon has been here most of this summer and often there’s a chance of seeing seals, dolphins and porpoises,” said Alan Williams. He’s one of five directors of South Stack Ynys Lawd (SSYL) Ltd, a not-for-profit outfit set up to run the lighthouse visitor centre.
“This summer an RSPB spotter was very excited to see a Leatherback turtle, half as big as a car. And a couple of years ago there was an Orca off the island. If we had one of those every day, we’d be overwhelmed by visitors!”
As it is, thousands of people climb down to the 135ft lighthouse each year. Numbers rose last year and defied cost-of-living gloom to rise again this summer. The post-Covid staycation boom helped, so did overseas interest and cruise ship excursions from Holyhead Port.
Its glowing reputation was cemented this month with news that Tripadvisor had ranked the lighthouse visitor centre in the world’s top 10% attractions for 2023. “Yes, in the world!” it enthused on Facebook. “We are very excited and honoured.”
Remarkably, the visitor operation is overseen by a group of friends who, six years ago, decided to take on the challenge over a cup of coffee at Holyhead marina. For two decades Anglesey Council had run South Stack visitor centre but in 2017 the local authority chose not to renew its lease from lighthouse owner Trinity House.
Among those mourning the potential loss of the much-valued facility was the late John Cave, lifetime president of the Holyhead Maritime Museum. Joining him at the marina for coffee that day was Alan Williams, who retired last year as Holyhead Port manager, and local businessman Hywel Williams. Completing the quartet was Richard Burnell, aka the “Holyhead Santa” and quite possibly the most famous Father Christmas in Wales.
“We thought it would be a terrible shame if the visitor centre had to close,” said Alan. “We wondered if we could run it ourselves – and that’s what we ended up doing.”
Armed with a lease from Trinity House, the directors upped staffing levels to 14. The staff are the real heroes of the operation, the secrets of its success, said Alan.
Several are retired, the oldest being in their early seventies. They take it in turns to guide visitors – one in the lighthouse tower, another in the visitor centre, a third at the spectacular aluminium bridge that links South Stack with Holy Island. A fourth runs a ticket office at the nearby RSPB Cymru cafe atop the cliffs.
“Most of the staff don’t want to walk up and down the steps on successive days, so we have a rota,” said Alan. “Except for Vince. He’s particularly fit and can handle two or three days in a row. But all of them can get down and up better than I can manage!”
South Stack lighthouse was first envisaged in 1665 but it wasn’t to be for another 144 years until it was built with Argand oil lamps and reflectors. Around 1840 a railway was installed to enable a lantern to be lowered down the cliff when fog obscured the main light.
Originally the only way to cross to the island was in a basket suspended from a hemp cable. In 1828 an iron suspension bridge was built, replaced in 1964 by a steel cable truss bridge. In 1983, this was closed to the public for safety reasons. Only in 1997 was public access restored once the new aluminium bridge was built.
The station was electrified in 1938. On September 12, 1984, the final keepers were withdrawn, the lighthouse having been automated. Tours of the tower and engine room now give a flavour of the rigours of the men who once lived and worked at the station.
For a walk of the area, there are details here. The lighthouse is said to be among Wales' most haunted buildings - there's more on this here.
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Given its location on the westerly tip of Ynys Môn, sunsets are often dazzling. It’s a place full of romance and drama – perfect for proposals: there have been quite a few.
Two years ago South Stack visitor centre unfurled a banner from its bridge asking "Clare" if she would marry her beau: at the time the couple were sailing past on a boat. And two weeks ago, Jordan White went down on one knee at the top of the lighthouse. Answering the question was girlfriend Kate Roberts, brought up at nearby Gorsgoch Farm, Penrhos Feilw, and tricked into thinking it was a private tour.
Fortunately she said yes, as their families had secretly gathered below with magnums of Champagne. “Although they both now live and work in Cheltenham, South Stack lighthouse will forever hold a special place in their hearts,” said SSYL director Dewi Thomas.
The visitor centre typically opens from late March to mid-November, seven days a week. Maintenance work by Trinity House occasionally intervenes, and so does the weather: this week it was shut for safety reasons as high winds gusted up the Irish Sea.
The staff are paid for their work. In reality, it’s a labour of love. For all their information boards at the lighthouse, it is their enthusiasm and knowledge that gild the island’s natural beauty for visitors.
Any profits made during the year are ploughed back into the visitor centre – or passed to the community. A recent beneficiary was Holyhead’s Lucas Williams, who returned with two bronze medals from this month’s World Sub-junior Powerlifting Championships, Romania.
“If we have anything left over, we use it for local good causes,” said Alan. “We’ve helped local sea cadets and a bowling club, and bought a minibus for the community. We try and put money back into the area.”
Visiting South Stack Lighthouse
- Tours run seven days a week, 10.30am-4.30pm, from Saturday to Thursday. On Fridays it’s open 12noon to 5pm to enable maintenance. Last tour starts 30 minutes before closing.
- Tickets can be bought from the RSPB cafe up to one hour before closing time. They can also be purchased at the lighthouse bridge, but for cash only. More details are on the lighthouse website or via its Facebook page.
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