It was nippy outside and a nourishing pub lunch seemed like a good idea. The Gladstone in Dwychyfylchi looked promising as I hadn't been there in ages.

Named after a four times Prime Minister William Ewart Gladstone, its location showed what a soft spot he had for the place where he took so many holidays during his youth and in the whirlwind of his political career. It's also very handy to get to through Conwy or off the A55.

This huge building pulls off the trick of combining roominess with character. A log burning hearth was emitting an impressive blast of heat and sturdy tables populated the furthest rooms.

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Curiously, though, there was a brand new tumble dryer, still in Cellophane, in front of the bar. Presumably it was about to be unwrapped and installed in the near future.

In keeping with the delivery theme, I decided to order the Mushroom, brie and cranberry parcel as a main course and took my seat at a distant table.

Enjoy a hearty meal at The Gladstone in Dwygyfylchi in Conwy
Enjoy a hearty meal at The Gladstone in Dwygyfylchi in Conwy

Soon afterwards a chappie came over and announced that the brie was unavailable and would goat's cheese do? Now there's a middle class dilemma if ever there was one so it wasn't really a dilemma at all and I said the goat's cheese would be fine.

While I waited for the food I looked around and noticed the array of prints on the walls.: "Aberglaslyn Pass 1885", a grainy image of a Great Orme tram and a charming print of Pont y Cyssyllte in the Vale of Llangollen, Denbighshire" from around the turn of the 19th Century.

I was impressed with the geographical spread. The food arrived and the parcel was made of filo pastry with delicious mushrooms and tasty cheese elevated by the coating of cranberry sauce.

Chocolate brownie with summer berry compote and chocolate ice cream
Chocolate brownie with summer berry compote and chocolate ice cream

The new potatoes were well-cooked and the salad was fresh. I was pretty full but went for a dessert of Chocolate brownie with summer compote and chocolate ice cream, leaving me a great deal fuller.

A latte washed it all down and I didn't need much food for the rest of the day. The Gladstone is the kind of place where you can have a hearty meal and it's so big you can have a private conversation too.

By the bar are Chesterfield-style armchairs reminiscent of a private club, and a pool table, and it has a warm, welcoming atmosphere.

W.E. Gladstone (1809-1898) attributed his rude health to the "fresh breezes and habits of life which prevail in Penmaenmawr". If he'd lived till today he might have been well-nourished by the food here too.

The Gladstone in Dwygyfylchi in Conwy
The Gladstone in Dwygyfylchi in Conwy

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The facts

Location: Ysguborwen Road, Dwygyfylchi, LL34 6PS. Tel 01492 623231

The food: Tasty and filling

The bill: Mushroom brie and cranberry parcel and latte (£16.70), Chocolate brownie with summer berry compote and chocolate ice cream (£5.95).

Service: Friendly and helpful

Setting: Roomy and full of character

Verdict: A good choice for a hearty meal